On Our Way to Corsica
Had a great week in Menorca – will get some pictures up when we have a chance.
Today we depart on a 2 night sail to Corsica in, hopefully, light to moderate reaching conditions. Should be a nice spinnaker reach the whole way!
Will keep you posted.
The Nightly Mystery
At home, when you decide to go to bed, you go to bed: You get into bed, turn off the lights, and go to sleep.
Not so when on a boat! Oh no… Life is always so much more complicated.
Here the process is different. You go to bed. You turn off the light.
And then you hear it.
It could be a squeak. It could be something banging. Or a grinding noise. Or some strange whining or humming.
Every time it is something different, but it is always there. Some strange noise that you haven’t heard before that is guaranteed to stop you going to sleep. Or keep you worrying about what has gone wrong and what danger it signifies.
First you try to ignore it. Then you try to figure out what it is.
The trouble is that the boat is like a huge sounding box and every noise is transmitted through the hull, making it very hard to identify where a sound is coming from.
Eventually you decide Something Has to Be Done.
So you move on to Part 2 of going to bed.
Which consists of getting up out of bed. Depending on your best guess of the source of the sound, you wander around the cabins, or climb up onto the deck. Maybe it is the shrouds resonating in the wind, or the floorboards creaking as the boat rocks in the waves. Or the anchor scraping along the coral, the noise being transmitted up the chain, through the snubber, directly to the attachment on the bow, where it gets amplified like the sound of a violin string through the bridge. Out on the deck you hear nothing. Done below it is loud.
So you put your ear to the rope, and now you can hear it. At least you know what it is, even if you can’t fix it. And you did get out to see the stars shining so beautifully!
When Elmer and Heidi were here it was a fender that was tapping the side of the boat. The fender was just that bit too low, so the end was floating in the water, meaning that the fender was not just hanging straight, but was now subject to movement from waves.
Last night it was our anchor bottle. Just recently we have been using a plastic bottle attached by a string to the head of the anchor. It serves too purposes: it quickly helps us to see exactly where the anchor is situated and, if the anchor gets fouled on something (the other day we caught a ladder!), it makes it easy to extract the anchor.
But last night was so calm, that the boat floated around in circles directly above the anchor and thus directly next to the bottle. Which went tap, tap, tap against the boat. Barely audible from deck. A pounding drum down below.
Tonight? Well, who knows what it might be tonight.
As I said, it is a nightly mystery.
North West Mallorca – a Delightful Surprise!
Current Position: 39°43.11'N, 2°35.18'E
Distance sailed since last post: 60 nautical miles
My image of Mallorca was always one of brash tourist filled beaches lined with tacky high-rise hotels. I was not expecting to enjoy it too much, but figured we really should do the Balearics just to see.
However, it all turned out very differently.
After a beautiful 10 hour sail across from Ibiza in a steady 7kt wind, on the beam, with no clouds in the sky, we arrived at the nearest landfall in Mallorca which was Port Andraitx (no idea you pronounce that) at about 5pm. Perfect timing.
However, there was nowhere to anchor. The outer harbor was filled with mooring buoys, and everywhere else was too deep and too close to the shore.
We decided to go elsewhere. So we turned the corner to the north and found a beautiful anchorage at Sant Elm, also known as San Telmo. Crystal clear waters, a lovely little village, and views across to Isla Dragonera.
There was also a spectacular hike up the mountain giving great views.
Since the forecast was for calms the next few days at least, we decided that we would proceed up the northwest coast, instead of going south to Palma. This coastline is spectacular! Rugged mountains, cliffs, and tiny little bays called calas.
We stopped at three before arriving at Port Soller.
First was Valldemossa. A beautiful small village with a tiny fishing harbor set in a valley surrounded by huge cliffs. The actual town of Valldemossa is actually about 5km up the mountain. We wanted to visit the Carthusian monastery but being a Sunday it was closed. Oh well, we had a swim, and moved on.
The next stop was the Peninsula of Foradara, with a dramatic hole through it. We stopped and kayaked around.
Then was Deia – again incredibly beautiful. All of these had quite a few day-visiting tourists, many from Palma, but even so the villages have remained unspoilt.
Finally we arrived in Port Soller, just in time for our sundowner cocktails. This is also a lovely town that boasts of a Victorian tram to take you up to Soller town itself (4km inland), and from there you can take a Victorian railway to Palma.
Instead we decided to hire a car for 35 euros for a day. This gave us some real mountain driving up and down steep hairpin turns through the Serra de Tramuntana. We first backtracked on land what we had done by sea, going to visit the Monastery that, this time, being Monday, was open. For 7.50 euro each, this was well worth the visit.
There was, of course, the Church with the usual Catholic extravagance.
There was also King Sancho’s palace dating back to the 14th Century. I have to say it looked far more comfortable than Lord Montagu’s residence in Beaulieu, England!
Then there we the various aspects of the Monastery – both in the monk’s days, and then after it had passed into private hands and was visited by various people including Frederik Chopin and his ‘partner’ George Sand – who was actually a woman, but used the name George Sand as her ‘nom de plume’. I guess she figured she could sell more books as a male writer, this being 1838-39.
To celebrate Chopin’s sojourn here, where he composed quite a few of his best pieces, they put on a piano recital several times each day, which was beautifully played.
The monk’s library had shelves full of ancient leather bound books. The monks were permitted to take out three books at a time to take to their cells for study and contemplation.
The also built a pharmacy in the early 1700’s, which still has bottles and jars filled with strange potions.
There is a fascinating collection of 1584 engravings on wood, used for printing with a hand press that is dated 1622 and continued in service until as late as 1950.
On from Valldemossa we then drove through Deia (previously home of Robert Graves and currently home to Michael Douglas who owns a property at La Estaca).
In which we took another hike
Then we drove through another small village called Fornalutx, just outside Soller,
And on to Lluc, which is another religious retreat. This had a huge Basillica, and various other buildings, grounds, and gardens.
From there we went down from the mountains into the middle of Mallorca, passing through the town of Inca, but that was just a boring modern town, so we quickly headed back to the mountains to drive through various winding roads through small villages.
Finally we crested the mountain col, and could see both sides of the island – Palma, huge, flat and built up on one side, and Soller, small, rustic, charming and not at all spoilt on the other. I know which we preferred!
We were fortunate to have settled weather. This trip could not have been done in any kind of onshore wind, so although we had to motor all the way, it was WELL worth it. So far there have been very few other boats about, though there have certainly been tourists at all the stops, most of them German, so I dread to think how it will all be in a couple of weeks when the high season gets going properly!
Today the sun is again shining, and the sea is again ‘Rizada’ (calm with ripples), so we have continued along the coast.
We called in a Sa Colebra, another very popular tourist day visit. When we arrived the beach had 5 people on it. When we left, at 1pm, there was standing room only! This is seriously spectacular, with huge cliffs, and a cut between then that provides the beach. A foot tunnel has been cut through the headland to allow you to get to another little bay, which is where the restaurants are, and the tourist boats dock.
Continuing north, the coast continues to be spectacular.
Tonight we are in Cala San Vicente. The only ones in a quiet bay, with a hotel at the end. And we even have free internet – hence the blog post!
Tomorrow we will head around the corner to the East coast.
A New Name for our Boat
Current Position: 39°4.5'N, 1°35.61'E
Distance sailed since last post: 12 nautical miles
Ibiza is known as a party town. We didn’t see much evidence of that, but then I guess we go to bed too early! Apart from that, there wasn’t too much to see. The old town was sort of cute, a bit like Obidos in Portugal, being situated in an old fortress, but the waterfront was very uninspiring.
There was, however, a rather funky apartment block being built, with colored plastic wrapping on the balconies and matching flowers.

Cool apartment block under construction, with huge pool-to-be at the front. Just across from the harbour.
After leaving Ibiza town we sailed up the coast to Santa Eulalia, a lovely town with some classy restaurants along the seafront. Way nicer than Ibiza town which had little to recommend it.
We stayed there two nights and yesterday we sailed further along, taking a look at Cala Mastella, but anchoring instead at the one next door, Cala Boix, west of Cabo Roig. When we arrived there were 4 boats there, but all of them had left by 5pm, leaving us to ourselves.
We paddled our kayak to the beach and took a little walk onshore through a valley with lots of wild flowers and many lovely properties overlooking orange groves and other fruit trees (that Ceu delighted in naming). We could see Mallorca across the sea, 50 miles away.
This morning it was a dead calm. The sea was flat, the sky blue, and the sun shining.
So we decided it was time to affix a new name to the bow of our boat.
It is pretty cute, don’t you think?
Today we motored around the corner to San Vicente in the hopes of finding some internet connection. Lovely calm day with the sun shinning and beautiful clear water (though still a bit chilly for swimming).
Tomorrow looks like it will be a good day for a reach across to Mallorca, 50 miles away. Although the Google translation of the weather forecast warns us that it will be “SOUTHEAST 2 RAGING TO
SOUTH AND SOUTHWEST 3 A 4. LOOPED COLLECTOR INCREASING TO MAREJADILLA WITH AREAS OF
STORM SURGE” which, I think, means it will be a pleasant peaceful sail with a little bit of swell. Ceu says she is right about the sailing vocabulary – even Google can’t handle it!
Will keep you informed 🙂
First Day Windsurfing
Today the wind is blowing 20-22kts from the North West, just as predicted. The sky is blue, the sun is shining, and it is a perfect windsurfing day!
So, finally, I get to try my brand new windsurfer, a 120 lt freewave board and a 6.5 sq. m. sail. All new stuff, with the latest technology.
Only problem is, I haven’t windsurfed (apart from a quick spin in Bermuda) for about 10 years.
And I certainly haven’t used all the new gear that is now available.
But all that was the least of my problems.
I rigged up the board and sail and threw it all in the water off the stern. I put on my wetsuit as the wind is COLD, jumped in the water and got ready to sail.
I am in the water. I lift the sail above me and the wind catches it, pulling me up onto the board and off we go! Man this board is FAST.
I am screaming across the bay getting towards the land. Time to put in a gybe.
Now it is here that the first two problems made themselves apparent. The gybe turns into a swim. No problem. Another quick water-start and I am off again, screaming across the bay in the other direction, even if my form doesn’t look too good.
It is now that the REAL problem starts to manifest.
I am totally exhausted! I have been sailing for what? Maybe 5 minutes? And I am huffing and puffing and can barely hold on to the boom, never mind attempt another gybe!
Another ten minutes of this and I am done in. Time to get a tow back to the boat and have some lunch.
Fantastic. Maybe I will get another ten minutes in later on.
But fear not – a few outings like this and I will be on top form again, just you wait and see.
Arrived in Ibiza!
Current Position: 38°54.85'N, 1°27.55'E
Distance sailed since last post: 126 nautical miles
We left Mar Menor to pass through the bridge at 8am – only to find that the bridge didn’t open until 10! Oh, well. We just dropped anchor there and waited for a while. As it happened it worked out for the best probably anyway.
As soon as we were out of the harbour, we put up the spinnaker. But it just sat there for about an hour until the wind filled in. Finally the wind picked up and we were on our way! The forecast was for gradually increasing winds, veering at the same time, reaching 25kts (force 6) by the evening and overnight. With the spinnaker up in 12kts we were going too fast – at that rate we would arrive at 5am. So we took it down and left just the genoa unfurled. We sailed like that the entire trip – mostly doing about 5 – 6 kts, though at one point in the middle of the night the wind dropped completely before it filled in again on port tack. Daylight saw us approaching land, as planned.
We were expecting a NW Tremontana wind to arrive tonight, so we wanted to be sheltered from both the SW wind we arrived in, plus the NW wind expected. Which is why, half way through the crossing we decided to go to the south of the island rather than the north.
We passed through Freu Grande, the gap between Formentera island and Ibiza island, a gap about a mile wide, and turned left to find an anchorage.
The first two didn’t work out, with poor holding, so we sailed on a bit more (still under genoa only!) to Ibiza town, and anchored in the Cala (bay) just next to it.
Now we are at a cafe ‘famous’ for its croissants, having hiked up the hill to Ibiza’s citadel first.
A good crossing in some fresh winds. Good to be cruising again, but my is it blowing here!
Cartagena
It has now been 6 weeks since we left Kelowna. Time has gone pretty fast, yet feels like a long time since I’ve seen my loved ones. Besides our trip to Portugal, we have spent most time here in Cartagena, where we left the Boat for the winter.
After many trips up the mast, Noel and I have successfully put up the rigging, finishing in time , the morning of ….the day we picked up Noel’s parents who came to visit last week for a few days.
The weather warmed up to about 28 degrees last week and we all had our first swim on the Med.
We went out twice for an afternoon sail. First day was very calm, and Heidi wanted to swim even though the water was only 18degrees. She is still very adventurous at her age and I decided if she can do it…I can do it. We both had a very refreshing and salty swim. We showered outside in fresh water, poured ourselves some drinks, and enjoyed the sun, beautiful surroundings the calm waters and the company.
Our second sail was fast, kinda bouncy……Just when Elmer was saying how nice it is in a catamaran, that things don’t move around much and stay upright…..2 cups slid into the kitchen sink one after the other and both broke. But really is the first time something brakes, that was funny. I think the waves in the Med are different, and our Caribbean Cat just has to make some adjustments!!! We had winds up to 25kts and it felt good to be out again. Elmer and Heidi coped very well, they are true troopers.
Good winds was good for us too, because we wanted to see how our new rigging was handling. Wow..the mast is still up!!!! Nice. Just needed another trip up the mast the next day to tighten one of the shrouds a little bit.
We had a great visit with Noel’s parents. We also rented a car and did some sight seeing.
Cartagena is in south-eastern Spain with a population of 218,210 inhabitants being the Region’s second largest municipality.
We visited the Archaeological Museum with exhibits, many found unexpectedly during building construction, dating back to 4th and 5th centuries and also many tombs from that era. The present Museum was built in 1982 around the remains of a Paleochristian necropolis. These remains are there.
The necropolis kept in this museum was discovered and excavated in 1967. The site that was disinterred, covers a space of more than 700m2.
Took a day trip to Parc La Union, in Sierra Minera. There we visited the underground mining industry dating back to the 19 and 20th centuries. They did the extraction and processing of mostly silver, led and zinc. It was such an experience to be inside this place (which are now nice galleries for visitors)where the miners lived through such hard and intense labor, hazardous conditions and the amazing heritage they left behind. The visitors mine is about 4000sq feet open to public with the depth of 80 meters. It has 4 levels, and the bottom one has a lake of red waters, due to the pyrite. It was very cool.
We finished our tour with a train ride to the parking lot and we headed on a hunt for a restaurant and a plato del dia.
Easy to find. Some of us enjoyed squid and others, lamb chops, ahhhh and lots of fries I was craving!!!!!
We moved on driving through the national parc in search of some nice beaches we were told about. Arrived. Took my shoes off to cross the beach onto the water. Not a good idea on black sand. I had to run very quick! I also learned not to wear a white bathing suit to a black sandy beach!! Not many people were swimming…..till we got there! What a great swim. The water was actually quite warm because it was shallow for a very long time. Welcome to the Med!
Noel’s parents left us the day after and I think they were very pleased to see our life style here in Life Part2. They are visited us before, but just a 1 day trip, while they were passing through the Caribbean on a cruise ship last year in Grenada. Good times!
During our stay in Cartagena Noel and I also visited the interesting Civil War shelter-museum. The galleries excavated in La Concepcion hill served as air-raid shelters during the Spanish Civil War.
Right across from our boat and the Marina was also the Naval Museum and the world-famous Peral Submarine invented by Isaac Peral (born in Cartagena) that was launched in 1888 as one of the first U-Boats ever.
So many other historical museums and churches. The national Museum of Underwater Archaeology was also very interesting with objects found in archaeological excavation spans of 2500 years from the 7th century B.C. to the 19th century A.D.
The roman theatre, and the Amphitheatre, built in the middle of the 1st century A.D. Some of the surrounding walls and part of the rooms are still visible.
Downtown is beautiful, near the water and the boardwalk, theatre and museums and the pedestrian streets for all the shopping, food, including the great tapas bars! Best churros served with the richest dark chocolate (you can choose white too!) Yummy!
Cartagena gets many cruise ships stopping for the day. We would see them arrive in the morning across from our boat. One day they had 3 of them on the docks. You get up in the morning, walk out with your coffee, and see these big floating hotels….that’s when you decide today is not our shopping day!!!! The streets totally crowded. Great for the vendors!
We have now left Cartagena and sailed on to Mar Menor, La Manga, about 30 miles north of Cartagena. Today is May 17th. Internet connection is not very good. Not sure when this message gets sent out.
We had a great one-day sail here, with not much wind but enough that we didn’t have to motor, except the last 10 minutes to make it perfect timing for the opening of the bridge at 4pm. The bridge lifts for a few minutes every 2 hours. And as I stood there taking a picture I was thinking of home and remembering our bridge in Kelowna.
We are now preparing to leave to Ibiza tomorrow or the next day….depending on the wind. It will be a 24hr trip. We are now going to town for a bit of shopping and will also prepare a couple of meals ahead of time for our passage.
Last year we heard here in the sailors community that the unhappiest sailors are the grandmothers…I think I’m ready to join, wait a minute! I think I’m there already.lol
Update:We are on the way to Ibiza tomorrow as soon as the bridge opens for us in the morning. Weather looks good
Stay tuned.
Installing the New Rigging – the Final (?) Chapter
Current Position: 37°44.25'N, 0°44.78'W
Distance sailed since last post: 2278 nautical miles
This story, you will remember, started in Gibraltar in October, when we first installed the new upper diamonds. But we didn’t receive the other pieces as John from Colligo Marine didn’t have them in stock. So he sent them to us in Canada instead, and we brought them with us. Only to find that two of them were totally the wrong length, and one was marginally too long. So John had to send us replacements for the two wrong ones.
Which then got stuck in customs.
Finally we got the bits out of customs, though it took a week and cost 70 euros.
We now had the new inner diamonds (the correct length, after John’s measurement screw up) and some fittings for lashing the lower shrouds which were too short (that was my measurement screw up). I put up the inner diamonds. They fit perfectly.
However, I noticed that the outer diamonds had stretched. The mast bend had gone. Since they were already at the end of the turnbuckles, I took them down and re-did the splice, shortening it by about 4 inches. I put them up again and they just reached the turnbuckle, and I was then able to tighten them down to mid point.
For the lower shrouds I decided to put the lashing at the top end, so that it would be out of our way as we walk along the side of the boat. To do that I used the flat plates that John had supplied for the uppers (which I then replaced with the longer Gibraltar ones). I put the plate into the t-fitting bracket. The other end of the plate went into the new lashing terminal John sent me (to go on the chainplate). Then comes the lashing and finally the terminator on the Dynex. The bottom end of the shroud went into the turnbuckle as before. However, I had apparently lashed it a bit tight, so it barely made it into the turnbuckle, and could only be tightened up a very little.
It was tricky doing up the lashing halfway up the mast. But all went well. Everything was tightened up and seemed ready to go.
We then went for a sail upwind in 25kts.
And discovered that the shrouds upper and lowers were way too loose. But now we had run out of space on the turnbuckle for the uppers.
So I went up the mast again, took off the new Gibraltar plates and replaced them with the originals, putting the Gib plates at the top of the lowers (which then had to be re-lashed). I was a bit concerned that I wouldn’t get the uppers back into the turnbuckles, but I rigged the main halyard to the end of the boom and cranked down on the mainsheet. That put enough tension on the mast to get the turnbuckles on.
The uppers were now super tight, ,the lowers also quite tight (not enough turnbuckle space to loosen them). But the mast bend had gone again.
We sailed around to Mar Menor in 20kts upwind. Also got a reply from the sailmaker who said we need about 10-13cm of mast bend.
So, we definitely needed more mast bend and also need to be able to loosen the lowers a bit as there is no room in the turnbuckle to let them out further. The mast bend is induced by the diamonds (as well as the mainsheet and general downward compression from the uppers) and it is inhibited by the lowers.
So, up the mast again. Re-did the lashing, letting out about 16 inches of line to lengthen the stay by about 2 inches, which was just perfect in the turnbuckle – though no doubt it will stretch a bit again as the lashing settles down.
The outer diamond seemed to be loose again, which is why the mast bend had gone. I guess the construction stretch in my new splice was still working out. So I tightened them again today, and also put a few more turns in the inner diamonds.
So now we have the mast bend back again. The lowers are a bit looser, and the uppers are still tight, though not as tight as they were two days ago. Which also means the forestay isn’t as tight either. Tricky to know where to set it, as I don’t want too much strain on the boat, but also I want a nice tight forestay. Guess I will have to rely on the mainsheet for additional forestay tension.
The mast is in column, and is dead centered – well, maybe canting 1/4 inch to starboard. Mast rake is set by the forestay, so can’t adjust that.
Have yet to go for a sail with this new set up. I expect to have to tighten the lowers a bit, as the new lashing relaxes, but the rest should be good to go, I hope.
One thing that is new though, is that we are now getting harmonic humming from the shrouds as the wind blows through them. Haven’t had that before. It only started a couple of days ago when we tightened everything up. Gets quite loud at times. I put some elastic between the lowers and uppers to try to add some dampening. It works to some extent, but still we get some hum, which is rather annoying. And even the split pins rattle in their holes!
So there is the saga. I must say that being able to adjust the lashing as well as the turnbuckle provides a lot of flexibility in getting the settings right. I was also surprised at how tight I could get the lashing. I did it with the turnbuckles just screwed in. I put my whole suspended weight on the lashing string (remember, I was in my harness) , and it held pretty well when I took my weight off, so when I had done up the lashing we could only tighten the turnbuckle by another inch. Barely enough for the screw threads to show, which is why ultimately I had to relax the lashing.
Finally On Our Way – Leaving Cartagena
Yep! The new rigging is finally up and seems to be working. It was a BIG job, so I am glad I don´t have to do that for another decade. But it needed doing and the new synthetic ropes are very nice and a lot lighter than the old stainless steel.
My parents came our for a week´s visit, so we went out for some day sails in a very pleasant 20kts with blue skies. Which also gave us a chance to tune the rigging and, hopefully, get it just right.
The boat has now been here for 6 months plus 3 days, so it is definitely time to move on. We will go first to Mar Menor, which is just 30 miles around the corner. The wind is against us until Friday, but it is a short enough distance that we should still be able to do it as a day sail.
Mar Menor is a huge saltwater lagoon with just one small entrance through a bridge. It is a lively place for windsurfing and kitesurfing, so I am hoping to get my new board on the water.
Unfortunately all around Mar Menor, particularly on the thin strip that separates it from the Med (known as La Manga) are rather unattractive apartment blocks and hotels. Not really the best atmosphere ashore.
The wind is supposed to change to Westerly on Friday, so at that point the plan is to move onwards across to the island of Ibizza, which is an overnight sail.
Cartagena has been a great place to stay for the winter, but it will be good to get out of the marina, onto the anchor, and back into cruising mode again.
STILL Stuck in Cartagena
The rigging was supposed to arrive last Friday, but it is still sitting in customs. SO frustrating.
But at least as places to sit and wait Cartagena is not too bad.
While we were waiting last week we hired a car and drove across to Portugal for a week. Then last week we took a day trip to Mar Menor which is a large lagoon just around the corner. Lots of windsurfing and kite surfing but the towns were pretty unimpressive.
Anyway, hopefuly soon we will be able to get on our way.
By the way, in case you haven’t noticed, we have now added a photo gallery to the blog, plus also a google map showing all the places we have visited. Hope you like them!












































