The Catamaran Adventures of Noel and Ceu

Sailing the Most Beautiful Yachts in the World

Current Location: Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
Current Position: 17 1.14 N 061 46.36 W Click to view map.
Distance sailed since last post: 183 nautical miles. View the map of our voyage track here

She is 78 years old but, as befits her name, still as hot and sexy as a prom queen. Helped, no doubt, by the extensive makeover she had a few years ago. And we got to ride her for a whole week! Her name is Eros – Greek god of love and passion – and the occasion was the 30th annual Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta.

So how does one get to sail on a beautiful multi-million dollar yacht for a week? Well, you could charter her. Or you could walk the dock during the days running up to the event and just ask all the skippers if they need any extra crew. Surprisingly the answer is often yes. We had 20 crew on board. Most of the other boats are similar, some have even more. It is hard to get that number of people together, so often they are short a few.

As it turned out our boat was full of newcomers! Cameron, the proud new owner of sailing yacht Eros, a 105 ft staysail schooner built in 1939 and previously owned by Greek billionaire shipping tycoon, Stavros Niarchos, was very pleased to be able to share the experience with  five of his friends from California friends. Most of them had never sailed before, but they were a great crowd and quickly got the hang of things. There was also, of course, the Captain, Michael, the first mate Wilson, who has been with the boat for years, and one other paid crew, Adrian, who had only been onboard for a few months, plus Oli, the tactician, brought onboard just for the racing. And all the rest were volunteers like us! We even had a couple of children join us for the last two days. These volunteers were mostly other cruisers who had walked the dock like us.

The Antiqua Classic Yacht Regatta is a spectacular event. 50 large yachts arrive from both sides of the Atlantic to take part. Some are over a 100 years old. Others are brand new, but build to classic designs. All are owned by individuals with a deep love of the beauty of the old designs.

The event is, of course, structured as a regatta with one race each day for 4 days. But it is light-hearted racing and, as far as I could tell, almost everyone won a prize of some sort – and certainly had a full mention at the prize giving. We came a very respectable 3rd in the Vintage Class A division. The other boats in the division were Marriette of 1915, and Mary Rose, both even older than Eros. Each evening there was a bar and some music but, truth to tell, everyone was pretty tired, so no one was staying up late. And at the end we were even called up to the stage to receive our prize for third place! A proud moment for Cameron at his first ever yacht regatta.

We all went out for a practice sail on Thursday. That was a little chaotic, considering the brand new crew. But each day got better. On Saturday Oli nailed a perfect start for us at the windward end of the reaching start, bang on the line a the gun.

On Sunday we tried out the Fisherman sail which no one, apart from Wilson, had used on this boat before. It was rigged wrong on the first attempt, but flying nicely on the second, and added a nice knott to our speed. We used it again on Monday for one leg, but then a shackle broke, and so that was that for that sail. Oh Well.Despite the huge forces on all the rigging that was our only breakage for the week, so pretty good going. Better, anyway, than Adix and Spirit of Bermuda who both tore their downwind sails.

Flying the ‘fisherman’ sail,

Oops – Adix tearing her sail – a bit more expensive than our broken shackle

 

No worries, a few minutes later and Adix – at 225ft the biggest in the regatta (and previously the biggest in the world) – is back in the race, and zooming past us.

Each of us had a specific job to do. Mine was to ‘blow the jib’. That meant that when we tacked it was my job to first let the jib fly, so the boat could round up into the wind, then bring it back in again so it wasn’t flogging about, then hold it in while it was backed briefly, to push us through the wind onto the new tack, and then to let it fly again so the jib trimmers could tighten it up on the new tack. Similarly I had to let it off when we gybed.

That was it. Considering there were only about 10 such manouevres during the race, there wasn’t much for me to do!

Ceu’s job was to release and tightened the running backstays on the foremast. The leeward one had to be slackened so it wasn’t interfering with the sails, and the windward one had to be tight, to hold up the mast. Of course every tack and gybe meant loosening one and tightening the other.

 

Getting fifty big boats in and out of tiny English Harbour was an interesting challenge. Fortunately the dinghy wranglers were on hand to push the boats in and out of their slots.

 

 

Hoisting the main stay sail. Just pure muscle power. For the main sail we needed six men to haul it up. Richie, Adrian, Wilson and Cameron at work.

No wonder we didn’t win! And that is first mate Wilson in the foreground

On our way out to the race course, just outside English Harbour

Michael (on the left) and yours truly just checking things out

 

One of the younger crew members trimming the fore stay sail

 

 

Cameron, the owner, supervising as Adrian attaches the main halyard prior to hoisting the mainsail

 

Capt. Michael, in the foreground, checking on mainsail trim while Cameron (in red) steers and Oli (tactician in White) looks on

High tension seconds before the start of the race on Saturday as we nail a perfect start. From the left we have Mary Rose, Columbia and Marriette of 1915

 

 

Ceu amidst the fore stay sail and jib, ready for action

 

Stomping along in the fresh trade winds. That is the fisherman sail ready for hoisting.

Marriette of 1915 and Wild Horses (built 1998) who was in a different class, but on the same start line as us

 

Marriette of 1915 overtaking us to windward – well, she is 60% longer and so faster. We had to finish within 12 minutes of her to win on handicap. Alas, we were nowhere near that!

It was a great week! Many thanks to Cameron, Capt. Michael, and Wilso for pulling together such a fun crew.

Now the race is over, we will spend a couple of weeks exploring all the bays and beaches of Antigua and Barbuda.

Beautiful Saint Lucia

Current Location: Rodney Bay, St Lucia
Current Position: 14 4.34 N 060 57.53 W Click to view map.
Distance sailed since last post: 36 nautical miles. View the map of our voyage track here

Enjoying Saint Lucia

We are delighted with beautiful sunsets every evening from our anchorage in Rodney Bay. Noel enjoying a nice swim

After a tropical shower we had a nice rainbow too.

 

Ahhh..now, this is the real Caribbean! Mum enjoying fresh coconut water at the beach bar. She was spoiled with so much attention from the locals. All the locals are very respectful towards the elderly.

This is how we buy our fresh veg. Saves going ashore to the super market.

Lobster was sold to us at our boat. This time we didn’t let it jump out of the pot. It was yummy! We found out later it is not quite the season yet. Oops. I guess it explains why they were a bit small. Not buying again for awhile…. Unfortunately, however, there don’t seem to be any boats coming by to sell us fresh fish, so we will have to go and find the fish market.

We enjoyed Mum’s visit for the last 2 weeks. She also had a great time. Here we are getting ready ready for a snorkle in Reduit beach. You can see Life Part 2 in the backround. In the far background is Pigeon Island. The historical site was first a fortress for the English against the French, and then in WWII it was a US radio station. There is a good hike up the hill to great views.

 

We rented a car and did some sight seeing

The busy Harbour of the Castries. On our first day of the tour there were 3 cruiseships. You can imagine the traffic in this small island. Took us forever to return home in the afternoon

 

 

Browsing through the market in Castries. Their Market is one of the best and most colorful of the islands.

 

 

We visited a Creole Parl where they showed us all about some of their local fruits and root vegetables

Nutmeg and mace

 

Grated cassava root makes great bread. Baked on top of a leaf in an open fire. We really enjoyed the demo and the tasting. It was yummy served with a cold tamarind juice from the garden as well.

 

 

A stop at the view point above the  beautiful Marigot Bay. Lined with expensive Restaurants and fancy yachts.

 

And a picnic stop and some great snorkeling at Anse Chastanet.

 

Bellow is the view of the cute town, Soufriere. Very picturesque and home to the famous twin peaks known as the Pitons, Unesco Heritage Site since 2005.

Impressive volcanic spires  rise dramatically from the sea. Gros Piton (the one in the background) is 786m high and petit Piton is 739m high.

 

The so-called drive-in volcano – sulphur springs and boiling water, though not as impressive as Desolation Valley in Dominica

 

Heidi on a dinghy ride from the beach to Life Part 2. Enjoying the sunshine and the cool breeze

We were happy to bring Mum aboard Life Part 2 a couple of times. She was staying at a nice B&B near us, as she is no longer mobile to be on the boat full time. She is a real trooper.

 

The nice thing about anchoring here in front of the Resorts is that even the  posh Sandals Resorts beaches are not private. Sandals in Rodney Bay. Here Heidi enjoys a nice pina colada, and at her age she can sit wherever she wants! This beach at the one of the three Sandal Resorts here in the island, has cute chairs and love seats all along the beach.

 

We rented a car again, but this time, we rented on a Sunday, less local traffic and also there was only 1 cruise ship in town. 

Our first stop was at Sandals Resort La Toc where we picked up cousin Lynda and her husband Frank. Coincidentally they were here from Ottawa on a holiday! We kept it as a surprise for Heidi who had no idea she would ever meet her niece here.

 It was sure a surprise, all she could say was ‘What you doing here”. It was a sweet surprise and visit.

We had a nice day out sight seeing. We spent the rest of the afternoon and into the evening at the posh Sandals Resort with Frank and Lynda.This one is in La Toc, near Castries. We enjoyed a nice swim and  drinks in the beautiful pool, complete with bridges and water falls and pool sit up bars. On one side is the sea  and nice turquoise waters, and sandy beach and the other side is backed by bars and restaurants to suit all  taste buds.

 

 

 

After Lynda and Frank went back to Canada, we still had a few more days with Heidi – a nice lunch at the Yacht Club, and a final road trip, visiting some waterfalls on the way to the airport. It was a great two weeks with her staying here.

Her flight was in the evening, so we rented a car did some more sight seeing including a nice (early) Birthday Lunch on the way to the airport. It was a beautiful spot overlooking the fishing village of Dennery. 

fishing village of Dennery on the Atlantic side of St. Lucia.

Heidi’s birthday lunch – with birthday ice cream!

She loves nature. She insisted she could make down some tough steep stairs to the water fall. She did find it too much work to change into her bathing suit though,  instead she had a nice rest soaking her feet the cold water and admire the natural beauty. We sent her home very tired. 

 

 

 

But now that she has gone, we are getting back in gear- the island of Antigua is hosting the annual classic yacht race week, which starts on April 19th, so we are dashing up north to watch that and – we hope – to be able to get a crewing job on one of the yachts as they are often short of crew. That would be so cool!

Still in Martinique

Current Location: Case Pilote, Martinique
Current Position: 14 38.48 N 061 8.41 W Click to view map.
Distance sailed since last post: 114 nautical miles. View the map of our voyage track here

Well, here we are still sitting in Martinique! Ceu has been to Canada and back to see the grandchildren. Now my sister, Mitzi, and her husband David are visiting for two weeks. And I have been busy doing some website programming. So not a lot of sailing going on. However, we did enjoy the big carnival here.

As for our crossing, the question everyone asks is ‘How was your crossing?’

As you can see from our daily satellite updates, there is not a lot to say about that either! The wind was steady trade winds the whole way. It started off with a good force 5, and gradually dropped to force 4 as we went west. We did motor twice: once for an hour to clear the wind shadow of Brava, right at the beginning. And then again for about 3 hours when the wind vanished about two thirds of the way along. Then it picked up again, we put up the spinnaker, and didn’t touch anything until we reached Barbados.

It is tough, this ocean crossing business. Roger and the Captain taking a well earned breather from all the hard work.

Roger contemplating his navel as Barbados comes into view. Oops, I mean sending a ‘Land ahoy!’ message to his friends by satellite.

But we did catch some fish, and just to make you all jealous, here are some pictures.

Two mahi mahi that didn’t get away.

Remember we said lots of blood? Here is one such picture. We did try using alcohol but the vodka didn’t work. When we switched to 55% Cape Verde grog – then we got results! No, really, it was the fish that got the grog, not us!

Sometimes we just caught sargassum grass.

Mid-Ocean Live Update

Current Location: Mid-Ocean
Current Position: 13 20.24 N 059 42.9 W Click to view map.
Distance sailed since last post: 6 nautical miles. View the map of our voyage track here

Just left Barbados for a quick over night reach to Martinique. Will do full update when we get decent internet

(Sent by InReach satellite connection)

Mid-Ocean Live Update

Current Location: Mid-Ocean
Current Position: 13 15.93 N 059 38.81 W Click to view map.
Distance sailed since last post: 19 nautical miles. View the map of our voyage track here

Arrived in Barbados . Drinking wine.

(Sent by InReach satellite connection)

Mid-Ocean Live Update

Current Location: Mid-Ocean
Current Position: 13 23.09 N 059 20.34 W Click to view map.
Distance sailed since last post: 292 nautical miles. View the map of our voyage track here

Land ahoy…I see land !!! Arrival is near! Caught 2 more fish and had our first squall all at the same time. Lots of excitement. Looking forward to rum punch!

(Sent by InReach satellite connection)

Mid-Ocean Live Update

Current Location: Mid-Ocean
Current Position: 13 44.87 N 054 20.76 W Click to view map.
Distance sailed since last post: 82 nautical miles. View the map of our voyage track here

Not much wind, have slowed down. New ETA Sat. Maybe. Who knows? Nice weather though .

(Sent by InReach satellite connection)

Mid-Ocean Live Update

Current Location: Mid-Ocean
Current Position: 13 50.09 N 052 56.16 W Click to view map.
Distance sailed since last post: 211 nautical miles. View the map of our voyage track here

It is late at night, and the stars are shining brightly. So beautiful! Wind finally picked up, so doing 7 Kts again. 400 miles to go. ETA Fri eve, we hope.

(Sent by InReach satellite connection)

Mid-Ocean Live Update

Current Location: Mid-Ocean
Current Position: 14 6.18 N 049 19.12 W Click to view map.
Distance sailed since last post: 137 nautical miles. View the map of our voyage track here

yummy…some nice hot chocolate. Burgers on BBQ. Bouillabaise, fresh bread. Gourmet dining at Heavenly Delights. One yacht in sight. Wish you were here. 🙂

(Sent by InReach satellite connection)

Mid-Ocean Live Update

Current Location: Mid-Ocean
Current Position: 14 17.51 N 046 58.75 W Click to view map.
Distance sailed since last post: 150 nautical miles. View the map of our voyage track here

Not much wind, have slowed down. Now playing a domino game, mexican train. Ceu knitting scarves and dreaming of visiting grandkids in Canada soon.

(Sent by InReach satellite connection)